Not the worst crime

that Russians autocrats have committed
is the Service à la Russe, of food in tedious courses
with a inordinate amount of cutlery.  It was introduced
by a Russian ambassador to France
when Napoleon was Emperor.

It boosted the restauration-trade flourishing in France
after the Revolution, when cooks no longer had
aristocrats to cook for and the bourgeoisie desired
some public luxury for the poor to watch
from beyond the windows of the restaurants
(as the starving gaze at TV cookery shows today
on mobile phones).

The serving of dishes consecutively à la Russe,
at first resisted, then became so stringent
and ridiculous in France that even today
hot food is rarely served with cold,
and a simple salad may well be served
as a separate course.

I prefer the Middle Eastern way of eating: the Mēzë
(originating from the Persian word mazzeh - مَزّه )

of several bowls or dishes to choose from
and eat in any order, like tapas,
but more various and larger.